Miami Living Magazine

Gloria & Emilio Estefan

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Page 113 of 179

112 MIAMI LIVING FOOD Packing Meat When you're in the mood for steak…. Words by Martin Haro There is something to be said about the Magic City's exciting culinary scene when Miami Living finds it appropriate once again to highlight the steakhouses that set us apart. Kobe Club, Prime 112, Tuscan Steak, The Palm, and Christy's must make room for the four new restaurants that have put some fresh meat in our plates—and on our bones. The Grill on the Alley (19501 Biscayne Boulevard, Aventura; (305) 466-7195) has brought to Miami a longstanding Beverly Hills tradition expertly modeled after the big- city grills of the 1930s and '40s. The restaurant menu is rich in protein (think prime steaks, chops, and seafood) and winning side dishes (mac and cheese— hello!), all served in an elegant setting that is hard to resist, so never mind that the joint is—oh dear—in a mall. I have yet to find a restaurant that cannot deliver a delicious plate of braised short ribs—and I am thrilled to report that The Grill did not change that fact. Its short ribs were cooked beautifully, and were oh-so-tasteful and well worth the visit. Rare Steakhouse (468 41 st St., Miami Beach; (305) 532-7273) keeps kosher, and already is a favorite among celebrities, including former Jane's Addiction frontman Perry Farrell. Located in the heart of Miami Beach on historic Arthur Godfrey Road, Rare serves dishes created using only the freshest, finest ingredients. Everything, every choice meat and seafood offering, every vegetable, bread, and pastry is cooked or baked fresh daily. For an appetizer, you must try the three mini-sliders with lettuce, diced tomatoes, and onions. For an entrée, the aged ribeye is the way to go, but, if you want to be contrary, and for once I will say you should, try the Floribian chicken topped with a mango salsa and served with plantain chips. It is finger-lickin' … you know. Meat Market (915 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach; (305) 532-0088) is South Beach's latest hot spot. Restaurateur David Tornek and chef Sean Brasel, both of Touch, did not go far from their old digs across the street to open a contemporary steakhouse with a neighborhood feel (hey, if it is on Lincoln Road, locals can claim it). They have cooked up an exciting venture, with a menu that is decadent, rich, and more importantly, outstanding. From the appetizers—such as fresh oysters (always a treat) to the rice paper tuna tacos (nice and refreshing)—to dessert, everything here is precise and perfect. I had never tried buffalo tenderloin, but I did, with the homemade tater tots, on the knowing recommendation of my waiter—and I was sooo glad I did. What a tender, flavorful meat. And my guest for the evening thought the filet mignon was—gasp!— better than any he had had at some of the Magic City's favorites. And finally, Fogo de Chão (836 1 st St., Miami Beach; (305) 672-0011) is It for all who know and love to eat. This Brazilian churrascaria offers "espeto corrido," which in Portuguese means "continuous service," which in turn means that throughout your (long) meal, Fogo's authentic gaucho chefs carve succulent, perfectly seasoned cuts of meat at your table, from skewers on which the meats have just finished slow-roasting over an open fire, preserving the individual taste of each tender cut. The service includes a whopping 15 cuts of meat, including lamb, pork, chicken, and beef ranging from filet mignon and "picanha" (the prime part of the sirloin). All you have to do is get there, sit down, and alternate your own two-sided disk, from green for "More food, please!" to red for "I'm on a break," and voilà, dinner will be served. Is it any wonder, after all of this, that the Magic City is packing meat? ML

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