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chairs, half-priced sunset (7-8 pm) cocktails with DJ, Friday and Saturday night Goombay bands, and a monthly full- moon celebration. Food is light but sophisticated. The menu includes nicoise salad, moules marinieres, rosemary- scented branzino, grilled local snapper, boneless ribeye, which you can wash down with a bottle of Grey Goose, Don Julio 1942 tequila, or premiere champagnes like Cristal Rosé or Ace of Spades ($1,200). For a veteran hospitality guru like Capponi, the world of entertainment is evolving towards a more natural and spiritual form of hedonism: "The club scene is dying. The DJ scene is supersaturated. People don't want to wait in long lines. They want to experience more." Exploring seven-mile-long Bimini is a breeze with a rented golf cart. Drive along the King's Highway into the main settlement at Alice Town and stroll passed the small craft shops in the Straw Market. Across the road remain the ruins (2006 fire) of the Compleat Angler Hotel, where Hemingway, and more recently Jimmy Buffett, swapped fishing stories in the rowdy bar. At the Bimini Big Game Club, you can feed two large bull sharks off the south dock. Conch salad fans will love Joe's and Stuart's, identifiable from the mound of shells in the driveway. Here, they pull out the fresh conch meat, chop it, add red onions, green peppers, douse with lime juice and mix it all up. The heavenly concoction goes well with a Bahamian-brewed Kalik beer or fresh Bimini bread available nearby at Nate's on the Atlantic-side Queen's Highway. If the weather is calm, the gorgeous beach makes for a perfect picnic spot with gin-clear water and dazzling white sand. Not surprisingly, excursions at Resorts World Bimini are water-based. The concierge can arrange for fishing the reefs for yellowtail off Cat Cay or trolling for wahoo out front with Captain Chris on the resort's Sea Hunt 27-foot Gamefish. Charters are available with Captain Stanley on a 38-foot Grady White for adventures to view dolphins at North Rock, sting rays in the shallows of Honeymoon Cay, and the half-mile long Atlantis Stones just off Luna Beach. For snorkeling off the SS Sapona shipwreck or deeper shark dives offshore, contact their on-property water sports center, Bimini Undersea. Leaving Bimini, we fly passed a new pier where the bright red-hull, 400-passenger, 170-foot catamaran FRS Caribbean "San Gwann" is arriving from Miami after a two-hour ferry ride. As the visitors disembark, I have to admit, I feel a bit envious. ML Resorts World Bimini, Bahamas. For more information, call 1-888-930-8688 or visit www.rwbimini.com.