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FOOD Mike Boyles' gastro lounge, Haven South Beach, serves up some flavor & flash Haven Sent Words by Martin Haro Every once in a while, people get bored with the restaurants they go to. Well, scratch that – it is not so much that we get, say, over our favorites…they just become habit, y' know. Going out for dinner becomes a question of scheduling. You start developing a routine, and next thing you know you, like only go to brunch at Zuma Miami, or to Spris during the week between 5:30 p.m. and whathaveya to beat the clock, or to Red, The Steakhouse only on Wednesdays for Wine Wednesdays (to enjoy the 50 percent off wines under $100). We are creatures of comfort, after all, and nothing gives us more of the good stuff than what we know. So thank goodness for Haven South Beach, the recently opened gastro lounge on Lincoln Road between Alton Road and West Avenue, which you should get to know very well. The hot spot combines molecular gastronomy and mixology with cool sounds and some cutting-edge design that give it a certain It-ness that is still accessible. It is the baby of entrepreneur-turned-restaurateur Mike Boyles, who has created not only an atmosphere but also a destination. From Day 1, Haven has established itself as trendy and flashy, which it is (there is an awesome wall installation that changes throughout your time there), without sacrificing intimacy as evidenced by the nice-touch ceiling grid of 1,000 replicas of the customized ice cubes used at the bar (they light up! They were installed by the powers that be, including executive chef Todd Erickson!). Speaking of Erickson – shall I talk about his food? Bit of everything for everyone Erickson's menu is super-eclectic, and you can see the CIA-trained chef (CIA as in Culinary Institute of America, not the other CIA) work his magic from the counter next to his small-ish open kitchen (the restaurant sits 120, while its sidewalk café can accommodate 20). The Zuma Miami alumnus has created a selection of well- thought-out, tapas-style plates that reflect his joyful spirit and his passion for travel and regional cuisine. Divided into sections – Crudo, Green, Roll, Crisp, Skewer, Slider, Sweet – the menu is a progression of winners, IMHO, and the perfect menu to enjoy among friends on a night out, or with one other person when you are too lazy to cook. Best thing is there is a little bit of everything for everyone. The sea monster crudo (m/p) is a rather gorgeous jumbo prawn with ají amarillo, fresh horseradish, and heart of celery – a great way to awaken your palate, while the seaweed green ($10; red, white, and green kelp with apple and kiwi fruit and cucumber) is a refreshing and tasty cleanser. Oh, drinks. You need try one of Haven's $15 classics, the reVive (veev açai, rhubarb, pomegranate, and lemon). It is just a fantastic drink, very cool and sweet. Haven's sangria is really gosh darned good as well, and a bit cheaper at $9. Alright, back to the food. You gotta order and fall for the maki Peru ($12), a plate of tempura shrimp with red bell and haas avocado and tai ceviche plate that is just goodness of the most flavorful kind. Great hamachi ($11) too…quite clean with a nice kick, thanks to the poblano, garlic, pickled red onion, and citrus vinaigrette that accompanies it. One of the crisps was my favorites (carbs – of course!): the $7 sweet frites. OMG, I almost died, came back to life, and ordered two more plates of 'em. They were salty and lemony and cayenne-y. I just hearted them with a passion. The Swedish skewer ($8) – meatballs with white truffle and a beyond-beautiful lingonberry gastrique – was pretty phenomenal. More substantive, y' know, in that protein-rich sorta way. It is a heavier dish, but you gotta have a whole meal. Two sliders that may be just a tad lighter? The prime beef (with bacon, guac, tomato, and Vermont cheddar; $8) and the delicious crab cake (with a horseradish remoulade, Napa cabbage slaw, and a winning pickled okra; $10). Remember what I said about Erickson's joie de vivre? It – and his adoration of liquid nitrogen – comes out to play in his desserts. The nitro ice cream ($9) is a show-capping sub-zero concoction with candy, fruity and nutty mix-ins, but nothing can hold a candle to his decadent cake infused with Coca- Cola. It was so ridiculous I am, honestly, surprised I could remember my satisfying time spent at Haven. Haven South Beach is located at 1237 Lincoln Road in Miami Beach. For reservations and more information, call 305-987-8885 or visit havenlounge.com. ML MIAMI LIVING 29